Lake Titicaca: The Experience

Lake Titicaca. The highest navigable lake in the world. Don't mind if I do.

Caught a night bus with my new travel buddy who happened to come in the convenient English speaking british model. Our attempts to make it to the lake town of Puno, however, hit a snag. At 5 in the morning.

In the middle of nowhere our bus stopped and we were told that there was a road block in place. This particular block was of the political protest variety. And when I say road block, I mean a bunch of unhappy Peruvians throw whatever they can find in the road to make it impassable for vehicles. Usually it's just a butt ton of rocks. Sometimes it's nasty llama pelts. Oh, and they light fires. Because no real protest would be complete without fire. 

Anyway, Our bus driver told us that the next town was only three km down the road and that we could catch a taxi there. So in the freezing cold darkness we began walking with our 40 lbs of gear. Three km later we discovered that our bus driver was a bit inaccurate. Ten km later it was clear that he had no judgment for distance. And fifteen km of walking later we were just tired and mildly pissed off. 

There was no town anywhere close. Just lots of road block materials and protestors. And fire. Several hours of walking and finally it looked as if there was hope down the road a bit farther.

Sure enough, we reached the end of the road block and there were taxis picking up those like us who were trying to make it to Puno. Unfortunately we were not the only ones to spot those taxis. 

Slightly angered protestors decided they didn't approve of these taxis. So they attacked. Peopled mobbed the cars, throwing rocks, deflating the tires, and doing other general crazy things. I decided it would be in my best interest to not get in one of those vehicles. 

Just a bit farther down the road and away from the mayhem was another taxi. Of course he wanted to rip us off but whatever. We were sick of packing our stuff down that road. So we throw our bags in, get ourselves in, and look behind us.

Now I don't know if you've ever had an angry mob rushing towards you, but it's rather terrifying. "Vamos! Vamos! Vamos! Let's go," I yell at the driver. He peals out. The car only gets hit by a rock or two. And we escape just before the mob converges. 

I know. Way too much fun before 9 AM. 

Now none of this would really have bothered me much if it had not caused us to miss our tour boat. By three minutes. We had put up with so much already that day so this wasn't going to stop us. 

What happens when you need to catch a boat that's already left port? Hire another to chase it down. 

Finally we tracked it down in the maze of the floating islands. They were coming toward us. We were coming towards them. Climb. Onto the bow of our vessel. Gonna have to jump. Only got one chance.

Nailed it like old pros. Once aboard the appropriate boat, after a round of applause, due to our lateness we were asked, "so you boys do a bit of sleeping in this morning?" if only it had been that simple.

Later we were dropped off on an island in the middle of the lake where we were to stay the night with a host family. Shall we say "basic accommodations" may be a bit of an overstatement? Not to worry though, because the overall experience was quite worth it.

A short hike later found us at the top if the island, which was also the highest point in Lake Titicaca. Convenient time and place to enjoy sunset. But as beautiful as that picture was, it was only after the sun had completely vanished that the true show began. 

Never before in my life have I seen so many stars. And if you try and tell me youve seen more, I will smack your face.

Just an obscene number of them jostled for a place in the sky and it was quite the crowded party. The milky way provided the central stage and every so often a plucky star would try it's luck crowd surfing into oblivion. Given our altitude and the lack of any city for miles, we had the best seats in the house.

As I lay there watching, I began to wonder how anyone could ever want to leave this place. After a bit, the riddle was solved. The lack of electricity and indoor plumbing gently tapped me on the shoulder and whispered a reminder that I should put forth a valiant effort to catch the boat back to the mainland that next day.

Lake Titicaca: I'd give it 5 out of 5 stars, but that would just sell it a might short.

So many lovsies!